Ford Ranger Touring Build Guide: Complete Setup with Budget Breakdowns

Every Ranger touring build starts with the same daydream. Weekends at the beach. Then a two week run up to Cape York. Then maybe the big lap.

The problem is, most builds fail before they leave the driveway. Not because the gear is bad, but because the order is wrong. Roof platforms go on before anyone checks the weight. Drawer systems get bolted in before anyone works out how to reach the fridge. Power systems get wired by a mate who watched a YouTube video and the first campsite turns into a troubleshooting session.

This guide gives you three build tiers with real Australian pricing, a staged purchase order so you spend money in the right sequence and the weight maths that separate a well built Ranger from one that is technically overweight before the camping gear goes in.

The canopy goes first. Everything else gets easier after that.

Quick answer: touring build priority order

If you are building a Ford Ranger for touring, buy in this sequence:

1. Canopy + dust sealing + tie down points. This is your foundation. Without it, gear gets wet, dusty and stolen.
2. Fitout (modular) + fridge plan. Organisation and access. Your most used items need to be reachable in 30 seconds.
3. 12V system (battery + DC DC + fused distribution). Reliable power for fridge, lights and charging.
4. Suspension, only once your constant load is known. Weigh the vehicle first. Spring selection depends on what you actually carry.
5. Recovery + tyres. Only when you actually leave sealed roads.
6. Roof plan, last. Because it is the easiest way to go overweight, blow your budget and ruin handling.

For a full canopy decision breakdown, see our Ford Ranger Canopy Setup Guide.

Choose your touring style (so the build matches reality)

Before you spend anything, be honest about which category you fit into. Overbuilding for a use case you do not actually have is the most expensive mistake in the touring world.

Weekender. One to two nights away, mostly sealed roads, occasional dirt. The ute still needs to work as a daily driver. You want a setup that goes on easily and does not permanently weigh the vehicle down.

Touring heavy. Longer trips, fridge always running, frequent dirt and gravel. You need reliable power, proper dust sealing and a fitout that survives corrugations. This is where the Ranger starts to become a purpose built touring platform.

Big lap / overland. Remote travel, long distances between fuel stops, self recovery priority. Weight management becomes the entire build. Every kilogram needs to justify its presence.

Quick self check before you buy anything:

• Do you tow a trailer, camper or boat?
• Rooftop tent or swag/ground tent?
• Fridge yes or no?
• Solo, with a partner or travelling with a dog?
• Do you need remote communications (beyond mobile coverage)?

Your answers determine which tier you need and where to focus your budget.

Tier 1: The Weekender Touring Ranger (smart, light, removable)

Ideal for: Short trips, keeping daily drivability, minimal permanent weight. Budget target: Roughly $4,000 to $10,000 depending on canopy choice and 12V depth.

A Tier 1 build should still fit in the work car park and not wreck your payload. The key principle is: removable where possible, permanent only where necessary.

Canopy (your single most important purchase)

The canopy is the foundation. Without one, everything in the tub is exposed to weather, dust and theft. With one, you have a lockable, weatherproof space that accepts shelving, drawers, lighting and electrical systems.

For the Next Gen Ranger, your pricing spectrum looks like this:

• Budget steel: From around $1,999 (supply only)
• Heavy duty aluminium: $2,495 to $2,595 (supply only, powder coated). This is where Oz Canopies & 4×4 sits, with 200 kg dynamic and 300 kg static roof load ratings.
• Fibreglass / ABS (colour matched): $3,200 to $4,850+ (supply only)
• Premium touring aluminium: $5,950 to $6,650+ (gullwing doors, engineered platforms)

Installation is a separate line item. Budget $400 to $825+ depending on wiring complexity and accessories fitted at the same time.

Common mistake: Buying the cheapest canopy then spending more later upgrading seals, windows and locks. If you know you will tour, buy the right canopy once. The cost difference between an entry canopy and a properly sealed touring canopy is often less than the cost of retrofitting.

Fitout (light and modular)

At Tier 1, keep the fitout simple.

• Tie rails and anchor points (under $100)
• One removable drawer module or a set of quality storage boxes plus a cargo barrier or net
• Budget drawer packages start from around $2,295 to $2,395 for a Drifta dual cab system (drawer + table + side wings). If that is too much at this stage, heavy duty storage boxes with tie down straps do the job.

Do not go full custom drawers yet. Use the first few trips to learn what you actually need and where you need it.

12V “lite”

If you run a fridge (even just for weekends), you need a second battery and a way to charge it.

• 100Ah lithium battery: From around $400 to $600 for entry level brands (sale pricing varies)
• DC DC charger: REDARC BCDC1240D at $789 RRP is the benchmark. It charges from alternator and solar simultaneously, works with smart alternators and is built in Adelaide.
• Basic fused distribution + sockets: $100 to $300 for a quality fuse panel and wiring

Total 12V lite spend: roughly $1,200 to $2,200 installed.

Common mistake: Skipping the fuse panel and wiring sockets directly to the battery with inline fuses. It works until it does not. A proper fused distribution board is cheap, safe and makes future expansion painless. Under VSB 14, electrical modifications should not compromise the vehicle’s safety systems.

Recovery basics (only if you actually leave sealed roads)

Do not buy recovery gear for roads you will never drive. If you do occasional sand or soft tracks:

• Recovery boards (Maxtrax or similar): $250 to $320
• Recovery strap, rated shackles, gloves, dampener: $150 to $300
• Tyre deflator and portable compressor: $200 to $400

Tier 1 cost breakdown

Category	Estimated range
Canopy (supply only)	$1,999 to $4,850+
Fitout (modular/light)	$300 to $2,500
12V lite (battery + DC DC + wiring)	$1,200 to $2,200
Recovery basics	$400 to $1,200
Tier 1 total	$3,900 to $10,750+

Tier 2: The Touring Ready Ranger (balanced, durable, big trip capable)

Ideal for: Longer trips, consistent dirt roads, fridge always on, proper organisation. Budget target: Roughly $10,000 to $25,000 depending on Ranger canopy tier and power system depth.

This is where the Ranger becomes a real touring platform. The shift from Tier 1 to Tier 2 is about three things: better dust sealing, proper power and a fitout that actually works over weeks of use rather than just weekends.

Canopy upgrade (touring grade)

If your Tier 1 canopy was entry level, this is where you step up to something with genuine side access, better dust sealing and a roof that can handle a rack or awning. If you started with a quality aluminium canopy in Tier 1, you might already be covered.

The key features that separate a touring canopy from a basic one:

• Lift up or gullwing side access (so you are not climbing into the tub for everything)
• Positive pressure venting for dust management
• Roof rated for platform or awning loads (200 kg dynamic minimum for most touring setups)
• Central locking integration

Touring grade canopies for the Next Gen Ranger typically sit in the $3,200 to $6,650+ range.

Proper fitout (drawers + fridge solution)

This is where you commit to a layout.

• Half drawer + open bay is the best mixed use touring layout. One drawer organises essentials. The open bay handles bulky, awkward gear like swags, chairs and recovery equipment.
• Full drawers give maximum organisation but are the heaviest option. Drifta dual cab drawer/table/fridge packages start from $2,295. Premium drawer kits from brands like ARB can run significantly higher.
• Fridge slide (if not integrated into the drawer system): $200 to $500. Essential for accessing the fridge without crawling into the tub.

Common mistake: Mounting the fridge right at the tailgate edge. It is convenient for access but terrible for weight distribution. Heavy items belong low and forward. A fridge full of food weighs 25 to 30 kg and affects rear axle loading if it sits at the very back.

12V touring system

The step up from 12V lite is a proper managed system with capacity for extended off grid use.

• DC DC charger: Carry over the BCDC1240D from Tier 1 or step up to the REDARC Manager30 S3 at $2,399 RRP. The Manager30 combines DC DC charging, 240V AC charging, solar regulation, battery isolation and monitoring into one unit. It is the premium integrated option.
• Fuse block, outlets, canopy lighting, fridge wiring: $300 to $800 (parts, depending on complexity)
• Optional solar input: A 200W portable panel ($300 to $600) extends off grid capability significantly
• Professional installation: $500 to $1,500+ depending on system complexity

Total Tier 2 12V spend: $2,000 to $6,000+.

Suspension (only after you know your constant load)

This is the most commonly misunderstood upgrade in the touring world.

Suspension springs are tuned for a constant load range. Light, medium or heavy. If you select springs before you know what your vehicle actually weighs when loaded, you will either get springs that are too soft (the vehicle sags under load) or too stiff (it bounces empty and rides harshly on the highway).

The correct process:

1. Install canopy, fitout and 12V system
2. Load the vehicle as you would for a typical trip
3. Weigh it on a public weighbridge ($10 to $20)
4. Select springs matched to your actual constant load

A quality suspension kit for the Next Gen Ranger (shocks, springs, U bolts, bushes) runs from approximately $2,100 to $2,500+ for a Foam Cell or Foam Cell Pro level kit from brands like Ironman 4×4. Add fitting ($400 to $800) and alignment ($100 to $200) on top.

Rule: Suspension does not fix overweight. It just makes overweight feel nicer. If you are above GVM, springs will not save you. A GVM upgrade or a lighter build will.

Communications

If you drive beyond reliable mobile coverage, a UHF radio is not optional.

• GME XRS 370C (compact hideaway): Around $560 to $605 RRP. Add an antenna and you are looking at $650 to $750 installed as a 4WD pack.
• Budget UHF options start from around $250 to $350 but the XRS line is the benchmark for build quality and feature set.

Lighting

Driving lights make a genuine safety difference on remote roads.

• STEDI light bars: From around $260 for entry level, up to $500+ for larger bars
• Add roof mounted or canopy mounted camp lights if you want ambient lighting at camp

Tier 2 cost breakdown

Category	Estimated range
Touring grade canopy	$3,200 to $6,650+
Fitout (drawers + fridge solution)	$2,000 to $7,000+
12V touring system	$2,000 to $6,000+
Suspension + fitting + alignment	$2,500 to $4,500+
UHF + antenna	$250 to $750
Lighting	$300 to $1,500+
Tier 2 total	$10,250 to $26,400+

Tier 3: The Big Lap / Overland Ranger (no compromise, remote capable)

Ideal for: Remote travel, long distances, self recovery, heavy extended use. Budget target: $25,000 to $60,000+ depending on depth and whether you tow.

Tier 3 is where weight management becomes the build. Every addition gets weighed, every “nice to have” gets questioned and the vehicle gets treated as a system rather than a collection of parts.

Long range fuel

The Next Gen Ranger has an 80 L factory tank. On a good day, that gives you about 800 to 1,000 km of highway range. Off road, towing or with a headwind, that drops fast.

A replacement long range tank (like the Brown Davis 160 L, which doubles your factory capacity) sits from around $1,300 to $1,400 supply only. Fitting adds $300 to $600 depending on the workshop. Other brands like ARB offer long range options in a similar price band.

When it is worth it: If your touring routes regularly include 300+ km between fuel stops or if you want the security of not relying on roadhouse schedules in remote areas.

When it is not worth it: If your typical trips are in areas with reliable fuel every 200 km. In that case, a couple of quality jerry cans achieve the same result for a fraction of the cost.

Power that supports long stops

Extended off grid camping (three to seven days without driving) demands more capacity and smarter charging.

• Larger lithium capacity (200Ah+ or dual 100Ah)
• Solar strategy: roof mounted panels or quality portable blankets (200W to 400W)
• Battery monitoring (either via the Manager30’s built in display or a standalone shunt monitor)
• Potentially an inverter for 240V devices ($300 to $800 for a quality pure sine wave unit)

Total Tier 3 12V spend: $4,000 to $12,000 depending on how far you go.

Protection and recovery escalation

Remote travel means self recovery capability, not just recovery boards.

• Underbody protection (bash plates): $500 to $1,500 for a multi piece set covering sump, transfer case and fuel tank
• Rated recovery points: $150 to $350 (the factory tie down points are not rated recovery points)
• Winch: $1,500 to $3,500+ installed (only if you do solo remote tracks where getting stuck means nobody else is coming)
• Recovery training: Seriously. Gear without skill is just expensive dead weight. Several organisations offer practical 4WD recovery courses in every state.

Tyres and spares strategy

• Quality all terrain tyres: $1,200 to $2,000+ for a set of five (including spare)
• For truly remote travel (Canning Stock Route, Simpson Desert), carrying a second spare is common. That means a roof mounted spare or an underbody cradle, both of which add weight and cost.

Roof plan (carefully)

By Tier 3, you may need a roof platform for recovery boards, a spare and an awning. But the Ranger’s cab roof limit is 85 kg dynamic. A platform rack plus awning plus a spare tyre plus recovery boards can hit 60 to 80 kg before you put anything temporary on the roof.

The better approach for heavy roof loads is often to mount on the canopy, where a well rated canopy roof handles 200 kg dynamic.

Tier 3 cost breakdown (additions beyond Tier 2)

Category	Estimated range
Long range fuel tank + fitting	$1,600 to $2,200+
Advanced 12V (capacity, solar, monitoring)	$4,000 to $12,000
Recovery/protection escalation	$2,000 to $8,000+
Suspension + tyres + alignment	$4,000 to $10,000+
Tier 3 additions total	$11,600 to $32,200+

The touring fitout: making it actually work

This section matters more than most people expect. A bad fitout turns every stop into a 20 minute excavation. A good fitout means you grab what you need in under 30 seconds and get back to enjoying the trip.

The touring fitout rule: access beats aesthetics

Your most used items need to be reachable without moving anything else:

• Fridge (multiple times daily)
• Recovery gear (when you need it, you need it fast)
• Water
• First aid kit
• Torch or headlamp
• Tyre pressure and repair gear

If your recovery boards are buried under camping chairs and your first aid kit is in the bottom drawer behind the fridge, your fitout is failing.

Fitout layout options

Half drawer + open bay. This is the best layout for most touring builds. One large drawer organises tools, cooking gear or recovery equipment. The open bay handles swags, chairs, firewood and anything bulky that does not fit in a drawer. It is lighter than full drawers and more flexible.

Full drawers. Maximum organisation. Everything has a home. But drawers are the heaviest fitout option and leave no room for bulky items unless you stack them on top. Best suited to highly organised tourers who pack the same way every trip.

Shelf + crates. The lightest and cheapest option. Open shelving with removable crates gives easy access and simple packing. It looks less tidy, but many experienced tourers prefer it because you can see everything at a glance and swap crates between the ute and camp.

Fridge placement and safety

Mount the fridge low and as far forward in the tub as practical. This keeps weight near the centre of the vehicle rather than hanging off the rear axle. Secure it properly. Under the NTC’s Load Restraint Guide for Light Vehicles, all loads must be restrained to prevent movement during normal driving, including emergency braking. A 30 kg fridge becomes a 600 to 900 kg projectile in a 30 to 60 km/h impact if it is not strapped or slide locked.

Common mistake: Putting the fridge on top of the drawers for easy access, right at the tailgate opening. This is the worst position for weight distribution and means your heaviest, most used item is in the most vulnerable crash position.

Dust and water management

Every canopy lets in some dust. The question is how much. Positive pressure venting (where a vent draws clean air from the cab or a forward facing scoop and pressurises the canopy interior) is the most effective dust management approach. Seal all gaps, check rubber seals at every service interval and accept that maintenance is ongoing. For a deeper look at canopy sealing, see the dust management section in our Ford Ranger Canopy Setup Guide.

Off road considerations for touring builds

Weight placement: the number one off road modification

Forget the bull bar and the bash plates for a moment. The single most important off road modification you can make is putting heavy items low and forward. A vehicle with 50 kg on the roof handles completely differently to one with 50 kg in the bottom of the tub. High weight raises the centre of gravity, increases body roll and makes the vehicle more likely to tip on off camber tracks.

Suspension reality

Suspension is tuned for constant load, not “sometimes weight.” If you load the vehicle to 400 kg over kerb for every trip, you want springs rated for that constant load. If you load it to 400 kg once a year and drive empty the rest of the time, constant load springs will ride harshly 90 percent of the year.

The right process: Weigh the vehicle loaded for your most common trip. Select springs matched to that weight. If your load varies dramatically between work and touring, consider adjustable solutions or accept a compromise spring rate.

Tyres, pressures and puncture plan

Do not fit mud terrain tyres if you spend 80 percent of your time on the highway. MTs are noisy, wear faster on bitumen and are less safe in wet highway conditions. For most touring builds, a quality all terrain tyre is the right balance.

Carry a tyre repair kit (plug kit, not just an aerosol can) and know how to use it. A portable compressor for airing down on sand or tracks and reinflating before the highway is essential, not optional.

Recovery kit sequencing

Do not buy everything on day one. Start with recovery boards, a shovel, a rated snatch strap, rated recovery points and a compressor. That covers 90 percent of soft surface recoveries.

Escalate to a winch only if you regularly do solo remote tracks where there is no other vehicle to snatch you out. A winch adds 30 to 50 kg to the front of the vehicle, changes approach angle geometry if mounted on a bull bar and costs $1,500 to $3,500+ installed. It is a tool for a specific need, not a default accessory.

Post trip maintenance checklist

After every dirt trip, check:

• Canopy seals (rubber, window, tailgate) for wear, tears or dust intrusion
• Door and window hinges for play or corrosion
• All electrical connections inside the canopy (vibration loosens terminals)
• Drawer slides and fridge slide for grit and smooth operation
• Tyre condition and pressures
• Under vehicle inspection for stone damage, loose fittings or mud packing

Weight and budget stacking (the adult supervision section)

Why touring Rangers go overweight fast

The Next Gen Ranger’s factory payload sits at roughly 985 to 1,050 kg depending on variant (GVM of 3,200 to 3,350 kg minus kerb weight of roughly 2,300 to 2,400 kg). That sounds generous until you start adding touring gear.

Here is a realistic Tier 2 touring load:

Item	Typical weight
Aluminium canopy	60 to 80 kg
Drawer system + fridge slide	40 to 60 kg
Dual battery (lithium + mount + wiring)	15 to 25 kg
Fridge (loaded)	25 to 35 kg
Roof rack platform	18 to 25 kg
Awning	10 to 15 kg
Water (40 L)	40 kg
Recovery gear	15 to 25 kg
Accessories subtotal	223 to 305 kg

Now add two adults (160 kg), 80 kg of camping and cooking gear, 30 kg of clothing and personal items and a 350 kg towball download if you are towing a trailer. That is another 620 kg on top of accessories.

Total payload consumed: 843 to 925 kg. On a Ranger with 985 kg payload, you have between 60 and 142 kg of margin. Add a rooftop tent (50 to 70 kg) and you are either right at the limit or over it.

Simple touring load maths

Remaining payload = GVM minus kerb weight minus (canopy + fitout + 12V + fridge + roof gear + passengers + cargo + water + towball download)

Do this calculation before you buy. Do it again on a weighbridge after you build. The number needs to stay positive with margin to spare.

Under Australian road transport legislation, operating above GVM is an offence and typically voids your vehicle insurance. The Department of Infrastructure’s ADR framework sets the GVM limit. If you need more capacity legally, a certified GVM upgrade ($2,500 to $4,500 installed) is the path.

Build timeline (stop impulse spending)

The fastest way to waste money on a touring build is buying everything at once. Build in stages so each purchase is informed by actual use.

Stage 1 (Week 1 to 2): Canopy + tie downs + basic storage. Use it for a month. Learn what works and what does not.

Stage 2 (Month 2 to 3): Fridge + 12V base. Take a weekend trip. Test the power system under real conditions.

Stage 3 (Month 3 to 6): Recovery basics + tyres (if you need them). Start driving the tracks you actually plan to use.

Stage 4 (After at least 3 loaded trips): Suspension. Now you know your constant load and can select the right springs.

Stage 5 (Only if needed): Long range fuel + advanced power + roof plan. By now you know exactly what your build needs and what it does not.

What we would build: three real world examples

The weekender couple with a dog

Vehicle: Next Gen Ranger XLT, no towing. Build: Aluminium canopy ($2,495), Drifta half drawer + fridge bay ($2,295), 100Ah lithium + BCDC1240D ($1,400 installed), 40 L fridge, recovery boards + strap kit. Crossbars only (no platform). Ground tent, not RTT. Total: Around $8,000 to $9,000. Payload used by accessories: roughly 150 to 180 kg.

This build keeps the Ranger as a comfortable daily driver with weekend touring capability. The dog rides in the cab, gear goes in the canopy and the setup is light enough that payload is never an issue.

The solo big tripper

Vehicle: Next Gen Ranger Wildtrak, planning a three month east coast and outback lap. Build: Touring grade aluminium canopy with side access ($4,500), full drawer system with integrated fridge slide ($3,500), 200Ah lithium + Manager30 + 200W portable solar ($5,000 installed), Ironman Foam Cell Pro suspension ($3,200 fitted), GME XRS 370C UHF ($700 installed), recovery kit + rated points ($800), Brown Davis 160 L long range tank ($1,800 fitted), all terrain tyres ($1,600). Total: Around $21,000 to $22,000. Payload used by accessories: roughly 280 to 330 kg.

This build is genuinely big lap capable. The long range tank gives 1,000+ km range on highway. The Manager30 handles extended off grid power. Suspension is tuned to the actual constant load after weighbridge verification.

The tradie who tours

Vehicle: Next Gen Ranger XL, used for work during the week, camping every other weekend. Build: Heavy duty aluminium canopy ($2,595), tie rails + removable storage boxes for work ($300), one Drifta modular drawer for touring weekends ($2,295, slides in and out), 100Ah lithium + BCDC1240D ($1,400 installed), 30 L fridge, basic recovery kit ($500). No roof rack during the week. Crossbars bolt on for weekends when needed. Total: Around $7,500 to $8,500. Payload used by permanent accessories: roughly 100 to 130 kg (the drawer and fridge come out for work).

The key here is modularity. The canopy stays on permanently for tool security during the week. The touring fitout slides in on Friday afternoon and slides out on Monday morning.

What we recommend at Oz Canopies & 4×4

Start with the canopy and use it for at least a month before committing to the fitout. We see too many owners buy a full drawer system, fridge slide and roof platform in one hit, then realise three months later that the layout does not suit their actual use.

A good canopy with proper dust sealing and roof load rating is the one purchase that serves every tier. Get that right and everything else slots in around it.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best Ford Ranger touring setup for beginners? Start with a Tier 1 build. A quality canopy, modular storage (tie rails + boxes or a single drawer) and a basic 12V system with a 100Ah lithium and DC DC charger. Take a few weekend trips before committing to more. Total spend: $4,000 to $8,000 depending on canopy choice.

Should I get a canopy before 12V? Yes. The canopy is the platform that everything else attaches to. Your 12V system, fridge, drawers and lighting all live inside or on top of the canopy. Without it, there is nowhere to safely mount or protect any of that gear.

Do I need suspension upgrades for touring? Only if your constant loaded weight justifies it. If you are running 200 to 300 kg of accessories plus two adults and a loaded tub, the factory suspension will likely sag and handle poorly. But buy suspension after you weigh the vehicle loaded, not before.

Is a long range tank worth it? If your routes regularly include 300+ km between fuel stops, absolutely. A 160 L replacement tank (like the Brown Davis at around $1,300 to $1,400 supply only) doubles your range. If you mostly tour in areas with fuel every 200 km, save the money and carry a jerry can for insurance.

Crossbars or platform for touring? Crossbars if you only occasionally carry roof loads (kayak, bike rack). Platform if you permanently mount an awning, recovery boards and possibly a spare tyre. Platforms are heavier, noisier and cost more. Do not buy a platform “just in case.” See our roof racks comparison guide for pricing and brand breakdowns.

How much does a touring build cost in Australia? Depends on your tier. A Weekender Tier 1 build runs $4,000 to $10,000. A Touring Ready Tier 2 build sits at $10,000 to $25,000. A Big Lap Tier 3 build can reach $25,000 to $60,000+. The biggest cost drivers are canopy choice, drawer system and 12V depth.

Can I build a touring Ranger without going overweight? Yes, but it requires discipline. Use aluminium over steel where possible (saves 20 to 40 kg on the canopy alone). Avoid permanent roof loads unless you need them. Weigh everything. Do the payload maths before you buy and verify on a weighbridge after you build.

Do I need a GVM upgrade for touring? Only if your loaded weight consistently approaches or exceeds the factory GVM (3,200 to 3,350 kg). A certified GVM upgrade adds $2,500 to $4,500 installed and gives you 400 to 550 kg of extra legal capacity. It is a Tier 3 consideration, not a Tier 1 one.

Plan your Ranger properly: next guides

This article is part of our Ford Ranger content hub. Here are the supporting guides:

• Ford Ranger Canopy Setup Guide (pillar page: full canopy selection, fitout and build planning)
• Must Have Ford Ranger Accessories (priority order and budget tiers)
• Best Roof Racks for Ford Ranger: Rhino Rack vs ARB vs Yakima vs Rola (brand comparison with AU pricing)
• How Much Does a Ford Ranger Canopy Cost? (pricing by material and tier)

Want us to sanity check your tier and weight plan?

Tell us your Ranger model (PX series or Next Gen RA), your travel style (weekender, touring or big lap), whether you tow, your rough budget and your roof plan. We will help you pick the right tier, sequence your purchases and run a weight sanity check so you do not end up overweight before you leave the driveway.

No pressure. Just practical advice from a team that has been setting up Rangers for over a decade.

Call us on 02 9627 8666 or visit our South Windsor showroom. Over 350 five star Google reviews. Direct importer pricing on aluminium and steel canopies.